Do you remember the triangular prism from middle school physics class? When white light passes through a prism, it splits into the rainbow colors: red, orange, yellow, green, blue, indigo, and violet.
And when white light passes through a lens, blue light is bent (refracted) the most and red light the least. The result is that a lens cannot bring all colors of light to the same point.

In photography, this optical effect causes something called chromatic aberration. In this blog, let's take a look at what chromatic aberration in photography is.

In this article, you will learn:
Chromatic aberration means a lens cannot focus all wavelengths of light to the same point. It is caused by light scattering in the lens. Around objects in an image — especially where contrast is high — you may see blur or colored edges (red, green, blue, yellow, purple, magenta). This is called chromatic aberration.
Digital cameras record color using RGB (three color channels). So in photography, we only need to pay attention to the dispersion of red, green, and blue.
We already know red, green, and blue light have different wavelengths. When light passes through a lens, the lens bends the light and the colors spread apart. This makes red, green, and blue hit slightly different spots on the sensor. Those small shifts cause chromatic aberration in photos.

In short, when you take a picture, the light passing through the camera lens should converge and form a clear image on the camera's sensor or film. However, because different wavelengths of light behave differently, they bend by different amounts as they pass through the lens.
That bending keeps the colors from lining up perfectly, so you get colored fringes or unwanted tints around objects in the photo. That is chromatic aberration.

Now that we understand the concept, let's look at the two main types of chromatic aberration. Based on how wavelengths spread in different planes, chromatic aberration can be split into two types: longitudinal and lateral chromatic aberration.
Longitudinal chromatic aberration happens when different wavelengths of light focus at different distances from the lens. This can reduce image sharpness and cause colored fringes, especially in out-of-focus areas.
It is caused by different wavelengths bending by different amounts as they pass through the lens. Different wavelengths have different optical properties. For example, blue light bends (refracts) more than red light. That means blue light tends to focus closer to the lens than red light.

Longitudinal CA is often more noticeable in lenses with long focal lengths and in fast lenses with wide apertures. It is also more visible in lenses with lower-quality optical elements.
In images, longitudinal CA can show up as red, green, blue, or mixed color casts around object edges. You can greatly reduce longitudinal CA by stopping down (using a smaller aperture).
Lateral chromatic aberration is caused by different wavelengths landing at slightly different positions across the image plane. In this case, the three primary colors do focus on the sensor plane, but their magnification or position differs slightly.

Lateral CA causes colors to spread sideways. This can create colored lines around object edges, especially at high-contrast edges.
Lateral CA does not usually appear in the center of the image. It mainly appears toward the edges and corners. Blue and purple fringes are common with fisheye, wide-angle, and lower-quality lenses. Stopping down the aperture does not remove lateral CA, but it can be corrected in post-processing.
Now that we know what chromatic aberration is and its types, let's look at how it affects the quality of your photos.
So is chromatic aberration purely an optical problem? Not exactly. Optical factors are the main cause, but some other factors can make it worse.
A large part of chromatic aberration comes from the optical parts inside a camera lens. This includes:
When light enters a camera lens, it bends at different amounts because each color has a different refractive index. This bending is called dispersion. Different colors travel through the lens in slightly different ways, so they end up focusing at slightly different points on the camera sensor or film. That shift in focus causes chromatic aberration.
The design and quality of a lens play a big role in how much chromatic aberration appears in a photo. Higher-quality lenses are built to reduce chromatic aberration. They often use special glass elements to do this. One common solution is extra-low dispersion (ED) glass or fluorite elements.
These parts help reduce dispersion, so different colors focus more closely together. Cheaper or older lenses may not have these elements, so they are more prone to chromatic aberration.
Even though optical factors are the core cause, environmental conditions can also make chromatic aberration worse:
Believe it or not, the shooting environment's temperature and humidity can affect chromatic aberration. Extreme temperatures can make lens materials expand or contract. That can slightly change the lens's optical properties. High humidity can also change how light passes through the lens.
For example, shooting in very cold conditions can sometimes increase chromatic aberration compared with shooting in warm conditions. Knowing these environmental effects can help you predict and reduce CA when you shoot.
The quality and direction of light in a scene are key factors in whether chromatic aberration appears and how strong it looks. Harsh, bright light (like direct sunlight) can make CA more noticeable, especially with lower-quality lenses.
By contrast, shooting under soft, diffused light or using backlighting techniques can help make chromatic aberration less obvious.
We already know that chromatic aberration is a complex interaction of optical and environmental factors. Some of these factors are inherent to camera lenses, but others can be controlled or reduced with careful shooting techniques and gear choices.
But note that chromatic aberration cannot be avoided 100%. Modern camera + lens combinations and post-processing software can, however, reduce it to a level that is barely noticeable in most photos.
Next, we'll share some practical tips to prevent chromatic aberration and keep those annoying colored fringes out of your photos.
Preventing chromatic aberration starts with the lens you pick. High-quality lenses are designed to minimize this optical problem. Here are some tips for choosing the right lens:

Choosing and caring for a good lens is important, but some shooting techniques can also help reduce chromatic aberration:
Here, we use Lightroom Classic as an example. Before you remove chromatic aberration, zoom the image to 100%–400% until you can clearly see the colored fringing on edges.
Then, in the Lens Corrections panel under the Profile tab, check the "Remove Chromatic Aberration" box. Lightroom Classic will use the image metadata and built-in profiles to do a good job of removing chromatic aberration.

But when chromatic aberration appears at the edges of images shot wide-open or backlit, the "Remove Chromatic Aberration" control may not fix it. In that case, use the Defringe controls in the Manual panel.
The amount values for "Purple" and "Green" decide how much colored fringing is removed. The Purple and Green hue sliders find the hue range of the fringe. Use the Fringe Color Selector eyedropper on the left side of the panel to sample the purple or green fringe you want to correct.
The specific steps: choose the Fringe Color Selector, click on the colored fringe area, and let Lightroom pick the right settings and correct the fringe. Or adjust the sliders manually.

A finer way to remove chromatic aberration is to use a brush and mask. Carefully paint over the fringing until the colored lines disappear.
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In this blog, we explain what chromatic aberration is, how it can affect your photos, and what you should do about it. The good news is modern tech can cut chromatic aberration a lot. For most everyday uses — travel, portraits, and landscapes — you will hardly notice it.
But in extreme cases (very wide apertures, very high magnification, cheap lenses, strong backlight) it can still show up. In those situations, you need to stop down the aperture, use better lenses, and fix it in post.